Winged Feast

When a restaurant is named for its most famous offering, the eponymous dish is usually the must-try. And so it is at Daryaganj’s Changezi Chicken. Don’t get put off by the shopfront—it’s little more than a door. But the space inside is cavernous, and one of the nicest places in the walled city for a sit-down meal.

Three people are involved in making Changezi Chicken. A cook throws a quarter (Rs 70), half (Rs 140) or full chicken (Rs 280) onto a huge, sizzling hot tawa. Immediately, two others cover it with ladlefuls of oil, smother it in a tomato gravy, throw on ginger juliennes, chopped green chillies and dhania, and stir with a vengeance. They never let the meat stop moving, and within just five minutes your Changezi chicken is ready. It sounds like it could be a frontier dish, but all three...