Ratan Manzil, Wodehouse Road
Meal for 2: Rs 1,200
A long, long time ago, restaurants in Mumbai fell into three categories: Mughlai, Continental and Chinese. Then word spread that a brave new eatery in Bandra served an unfamiliar cuisine—adventurous foodies rushed to the no-frills eatery which was serving up a spectacular Tom Yam soup and papaya salad. Then, as other, exotic eateries sprang up, the city forgot all about Thai-Baan. So it’s cause for rejoicing that the restaurant has popped up again in a quiet corner of Colaba. And it has lost none of its spicy magic.
We drop in on a quiet Sunday afternoon. Initially, we are a little rattled by the menu that lists the nutritional and health benefits of each dish. We order the Tom Kha Je (Rs 175), a delicate coconut-milk-based soup flavoured with ginger...