30 July, 2021

Royal Spread

Royal Spread
The fastidiously genteel nawabs of Awadh and the Dakkhini-speaking aristocrats of Hyderabad were such avid carnivores that the best of the country’s herbs and vegetables had to be made invisible as seasoning, gravy or filling to reach their heavily-larded guts. For them, food and flesh were one and the same. Their medicine men also had the onerous task of mixing potions and preparations into their foods to help them cope with disease and exhaustion. Today these family recipes are all set to entertain the common palate via Maurya Sheraton’s flagship restaurant, Dumpukht. This somewhat secluded gastronomic Mecca begins the sweltering season with a menu that celebrates the traditionally ‘heavy’ non-veg cuisine of these two royal states. These especially ‘lightened’ foods have been value-added by the association of Kulsum Begum, descendant of Hyderabad’s curio-collecting vizier Salar Jung, and Chef Ghulam Moinuddeen Qureshi, son-in-law of Dumpukht’s founding chef Imtiaz Qureshi. The menu also packs in a...

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