We skirted around the glittering new 'Pakistani style' homes owned by drug warlords in the elite neighbourhood of Wazi Akbar Khan-they don't like being photographed at all-on to the Sikhs in Karte Parwan, many of whom have returned to Kabul because in India they were desperate to return 'home', on to the old Russian part of town where the buildings were facsimiles of DDA flats in Delhi.
Then there are the oases. Bagh-e-Babar has just been restored by the Aga Khan Foundation-it's where the city comes out to stroll down the terraced garden with its tapestry of trees. A guard there said to me, "Babar yahan ke they, lekin khidmat unhonay India ki ki (Babar came...

THIS ARTICLE IS PRICELESS...
To read this piece, and more such stories in India's most exciting and exacting magazine, plus get access to our 25-year archives goldmine, please subscribe.