27 January, 2021

Lahore Diary

How come there are so few people visiting the Lahore fort and the mosque on a Sunday? I ask. Haven’t you heard about our problems, he counters.

Lahore Diary

The Scent of Terror

The willows still weep into the canal that runs through Lahore. The impressive red brick structures of the Lahore High Court, museum and Aitchison College still remind you of its historic past. The Badshahi Mosque continues to stun you with its imposing beauty and simplicity. But something has changed. Today, in a city that once had a leisurely, almost nawabi pace, you can feel the tension in the air. You notice the thin crowds in the marketplace.

Mohammed Sarwar stands just below the steps leading up to the Badshahi Mosque selling what he calls kadai gosht. There’s neither a kadai nor any gosht. He fills plastic cups with a mixture of boiled channa, chopped onion and tomato and if you’re willing to try the concoction, he embellishes it with some deadly-looking chutney and masalas. How come there are so few people visiting the Lahore fort and...



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