27 September, 2020

Iconic Restaurants: North

Explore the best flavours from North India here. From Srinagar's Ahdoos to Lucknow's iconic Tunday Kababs, North India is knows for its flavours...

Iconic Restaurants: North

Photograph by Tribhuvan Tiwari

Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid, Delhi

Some forms of beauty mature and attain their fullness, paradoxically, when their enabling forces are already ebbing in the last rays of the sun. The pigeons fluttering over a Shahjahanabad sundown offer guard of honour, as do the mendicants en route. As a liveable middle-class experience, we celebrate what was one of the greatest empires in the world, with all its flaws, precisely along an axis where it was breathing its last, catching all the colours of the sunset. It should not offend any poetic mind to wonder whether the complexity of emotion one can see in Mir, Ghalib or Momin is not present, in culinary form, in what the last, melancholic emperor’s khansama was cooking up. In the slyly piquant ishtu, for instance. Or the complex tones of the mutton burra. Think of the...



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